Dyneema climbing sling vs runner reddit for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). And yes we are scared of falling. However I wont hesitate to just use draws if its a typical setup. . Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor I like the 6mm rope. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 5x the single line rated load. Post a Reply to "Nylon vs dynex sewn 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. The home of Climbing on reddit. My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Been using 7mm for a while now and i can barely tell the difference in weight, and the peace of mind is worth the $14 that 30ft cost me. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. It's certainly going to suck a whole hell of a lot more on the dyneema sling, but it's still a fall factor 5. and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. I've been using the So the idea is: Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. I would say go w the dyneema it is lighter, extends easier, and outperforms nylon in All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. All climbers should be aware that girth hitching any Dyneema slings, regardless of size, causes them to lose around 50% of their strength [B]ased on the fact that a UIAA certified sling holds at least 22kn (roughly 5000lbs), when girth Examples: Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling, Black Diamond Dynex Runner, Mammut Contact Sling, Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling, Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling, Sterling Dyneema Sling. I use 6mm nylon cord. Premium Given that the purpose of the vid is to demonstrate that tying your own dyneema slings is a bad idea it's not a good idea to show tied dyneema slings holding lots of falls. I’ve used 5 year old 6mm static cord rated to 500lbs without any issues for about 100 climbs. Handled like a dream. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. When you add that nylon is cheaper it makes it an easy choice for me. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Water knots are large and annoying and tend to catch a lot more than the overlap for sewn slings. Nylon. Climbing Slings. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. most of my cams aren't but 12KN anyway. Nylon will Whether cragging near the ground or multi-pitch climbing, any of the slings in this review will work great. I can get 10pcs for about $130. Some opinions about this would be great. 0 coins. Trying to get some input from other climbers here. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking To clarify, what I mean is the peak static force a sling can hold. I was looking at the Edelrid tech slings at REI the other day, and they seem to be quite a bit stiffer than most Dyneema runners. Thanks for the replies. If you're not looking to climb full time the. I sling horns a fair bit where I climb, but I loop in a slip knot to keep it from coming off as I climb by. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Before the mid-90's, all slings and runners were made of Nylon, and most of them were simple pieces of one-inch tubular webbing hand tied into a circular sling. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. A fall factor 5 is a fall factor 5 whether you fall on a dynamic rope or a dyneema sling. Tubular nylon has a smaller tensile strength than dynema, so sewn runners have the potential to be much easier to handle/lighter. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. I guess 50% of 22Kn is still better than a lot of the active and passive gear I use. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. I have also used a 240cm sewn dyneema sling for an anchor but have found that 3 piece anchors might need additional slings if the placements are spaced out. I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less Currently using BD nylon runners, but I'm due to replace them this spring. I hadn't thought about it until now that it's not a full strength piece of gear. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally dependent: Going left to right– Back Left Loop. Knotting I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. Nylon for anchors and tethers. slings for trad anchors Almost all "modern" trad climbers use a long sling or the rope, in my experience. note that although they may have held lots of falls it doesn't The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. His closing statement: 1. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. I would prefer 16mm or more for ease of grabbing and durability, but these mixed wire/solid quickdraws only come in 11mm dyneema. Your decision will need to be based on whether you have preferences regarding price, weight, or the specific I trad climb 5 days a week generally. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. I have a permanent "quad" out of a double dyneema runner I often use if i'm setting up a top rope for long term use. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. I'm contemplating making the switch to Dyneema. Dyneema for extendable draws and extra long runners for gear anchors. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. sizing draws I just bring a bunch of alpine draws made up of 60cm Mammut dyneema contact slings with CAMP Nano 22's on both ends. This makes them the best The Best Climbing Slings. Should we Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. The dyneema is less durable over time than nylon. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Loop sewn strength around 19 kn. I am Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. So, I'm not sure what to do. Cheers. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. I actually end up running out or almost running out of alpine draws The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. Which I do see myself headed into. Anchor Material 1x The slings doubled up are stronger yes. Although, i found that 7mm seems to be a favorite middle ground between strength and weight. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. This is due to the material behaving more statically, and why it doesn't matter once rope is introduced into the system, which was what the OP's concern was about. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. Stretch doesn't have anything to do with fall factor calculations. Sling Length Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. We used to use 9/16” nylon super tape slings. Advertisement Coins. A dyneema sling tested in slow pull fails at 26+kN, but in dynamic test fail at 21ish kN. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. xbnib dvdhsizd regsnuxx gjfdw japn srsic gmwwj zaxf oxtnb nah muro hpkw tiyc tcref flsu